Check out this hot sax

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Grrrrrrrr

Videos

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The POW Project

Signs & Decorations, Videos

I’ve been working my ass off since September, trying to get some work done for my day job. I hope to have that work completed by the end of February, and figured it would be cool to take a few days off then and work on a new project. I’ll provide more details as I work on this, but for now – here’s some of the components I just got in the mail from CoolNeon.com:

I got 2 different lengths and colors of El Wire, and have them hooked to a sound activated driver. The driver has a sensitivity setting on it which can be dialed up or down as needed. Stay tuned for more info. :)

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Super Mario World

Videos

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Do You Recognize This Man?

Videos

Maybe I’m just being fussy, but shouldn’t national news reporters know who the current president is?

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Mario Going Psycho

Videos

Hey guys. Sorry for the lack of posts…I’ve been working like crazy on ACTUAL work. I plan on working all weekend. :( Hopefully I can get my current project out and take a short break soon. In the meantime, here’s a video I spotted on RetroBlast.com. This is NOT the Mario I remember…someone has anger management issues!

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It’s Alive…It’s Alive….It’s ALIVE!!!

Signs & Decorations, Videos

The title above should be said as Gene Wilder did in Young Frankenstein.

Howdy kids! I have good news to report regarding the programming of my LED sign project. :)

The folks at EvilMadScientist.com and LadyAda.net teamed up to help me resolve the issue I was having with my USBTinyISP programmer, and it’s now working perfectly. If I understand it right, the 1.5K resistors were not allowing enough voltage to go to the buffer chip. I removed them (R6 and R7) and replaced them with wires:

USBTinyISP Hack

After I did that, it worked great. I then took some code that “bbum” posted on the EvilMadScientist.com boards (thanks!), and modified it to alternate rows 16 and 17 to get my 2 frame animation as follows:

lightLine24(lineDuration);
lightLine23(lineDuration);

if (RowOnCount++ < 75) {

     // frame 1 animation
     lightLine16(lineDuration);

     //lines below say "EAT ME"....makes them flash on and off with the animation
     lightLine22(lineDuration);
     lightLine21(lineDuration);
     lightLine20(lineDuration);
     lightLine19(lineDuration);
     lightLine18(lineDuration);

} else if (RowOnCount < 150) {
     // frame 2 animation
     lightLine17(lineDuration);
} else {
     RowOnCount = 0;
}

lightLine15(lineDuration);
lightLine14(lineDuration);
lightLine13(lineDuration);
lightLine12(lineDuration);
lightLine11(lineDuration);
lightLine10(lineDuration);
lightLine9(lineDuration);
lightLine8(lineDuration);
lightLine7(lineDuration);
lightLine6(lineDuration);
lightLine5(lineDuration);
lightLine4(lineDuration);
lightLine3(lineDuration);
lightLine2(lineDuration);
lightLine1(lineDuration);
lightLine0(lineDuration);

You can download the full source code for this here.

Here’s a new video of the sign:

As you can see, I decided to flash the “EAT ME” text in sync with the animation. Here’s a pic of the sign as it looks standing in the arcade:

Pac-Man Ghost LED Sign

I feel like making another one now. :)

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Let There Be Light (emitting diodes)!

Signs & Decorations, Videos

CAUTION…LONG (but cool?) POST WARNING!

I mentioned on my birthday (2/26) that my wife got me a cool project to work on. While it’s not 100% done, I have enough done to talk about it. I’m glad, because I’ve been dying to write about this! :)

Here’s what I got:

IMG_3682

It’s an LED pegboard sign project from EvilMadScientist.com. It’s basically a much cooler version of light bright. Get your kit here! It’s designed to be highly “hackable”. It has a microcontroller that you can reprogram if you have the hardware and software for it (which they explain on their site). Supposedly the way it’s designed, it’s possible (if you reprogram it) to do simple animation by turning entire rows on and off as you see fit. It’s not possible, however, to address individual LEDs separately.

How did my wife know I would love this? Maybe she’s psychic! OR….maybe I told her to buy it for me. :) I never do that, but this was too cool and I needed it badly so I dropped a hint for this one well in advance.

She got me pink, blue, and green 10mm LEDs from the same place that sold the circuit board kit. She also got me red and yellow LEDs from this place. After following the instructions (which were pretty simple), I had the board wired up and ready for LEDs. I stuck a couple of each color in to see what they would look like:

IMG_3692

They are pretty hard to get a good picture of, and they look much better in person (just like me).

I had a lot of design ideas in mind, and it took me forever to decide what to put on the sign. I settled on this, which I mocked up in Photoshop:

LED Sign Mockup

If you need it, here’s the layered Photoshop file you can use to make your mockup.

Here’s a still of it lit up:

IMG_3731_fixed

It looks better from further away, but the picture wouldn’t come out from a distance. If you like, get up out of your chair and step back about 30 feet from your monitor to get the full effect. (OMG! You’re doing it aren’t you!? HAH!).

The yellow is brighter in person…like I said – it’s ridiculously hard to photograph. I ended up having to order more blue LEDs, and some white ones which I got here. The white LEDs came in today and I soldered them all in. I’m not happy with the result. They blend in too much with the blue and don’t stand out enough. I’ve decided to remove them so the sign will end up looking like the image above with one small twist which is best demonstrated in this short video:

Now, I know what your thinking…you can’t reprogram it to make individual LEDs do your bidding. How did I do that then, your asking yourself? I’ll tell you if you promise to keep it a secret.

First, some honesty here. I didn’t actually reprogram the microcontroller yet. I plan on doing so when the USBTinyISP controller kit arrives that I ordered. What you are seeing is a complete sham, and I feel pretty bad about tricking you like this. My wife is pushing this microswitch button on and off in the darkness while I’m working the camera:

IMG_3755

Here’s the logic behind this. The microcontroller on the board is setup to scan through all the rows on the board, turning them on and off in succession. Only one row is ever lit at any given time, but because it happens so fast your eyes see what look like a still image containing multiple rows of lights. It’s possible to rewrite the code to turn the rows on longer, shorter, in any order you want, to the beat of Michael Jackson’s Thriller, etc…

So, I figured you could just hack the board and wire the lights that I want to change via 30AWG wire jumpers to 2 unused rows. Then, I should be able to program those “unused” rows to control my animation. Here’s the rat’s nest on the back of the board that I managed to accomplish this with:

IMG_3803

Only the last 2 rows of LEDs on the ghost image change. I started by removing the 2 resistors on the left side of the board that are connected to the two bottom rows of blue LEDs so those 2 rows were completely off when the sign was turned on.

Then, I made this image in Photoshop to help me keep track of which LEDs were lit when:

ghost_mixed

I made it by turning one of the sprite images yellow, and blending it on top of the other blue one to make green where they overlap. Green pixels are on in both frames. Blue are on in the first frame, and yellow in the second. I connected all the “green” pixel LEDs to the row directly above. Then, I wired frame 1 LEDs to the first empty row below the ghost (row #16), and frame 2 LEDs to the second (row #17). I had to cut traces on the back of the board to keep only the LEDs I wanted wired to the rows I was working with. It was pretty tricky but I got it by trial and error.

In order to test the wiring, I pulled one leg of each of the resistors feeding rows 16 and 17 out of the board, and soldered temporary wires to them:

IMG_3756

I soldered two more wires to the pads that those legs belonged in. The two resistor ends then connected to common (ground) on the microswitch. One pad was then soldered to the NO (normally open) terminal, and the other to the NC (normally closed) terminal on the microswitch. This allows one row to be connected when you push the button, and the opposite row to be connected when you release it – alternating the rows. :)

My USBTinyISP programmer kit should be here in a few days. When I get it animated (without the wife behind the curtain clicking that button), I’ll post the source code in case you want to make one for yerself.

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Head Tracking via Nintendo Wii Hardware

Videos

I just spotted this cool video on Neatorama.com.

Someone needs to give this guy a job at Nintendo.

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Incredibly Awesome Chair

Humor, Videos

Checkout this chair:

Now, if only they made a toilet seat version. That would be something.

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