Wow…it’s February already. Time flies when you are soldering the heck out of stuff.
I’ve written a new tutorial for you:
I still consider myself a newbie when it comes to electronics. I’ve picked up things here and there but have a lot to learn. I read on PinRepair.com that the 40 pin video processor chip in U16 of Baby Pac-Man’s Vidiot board is prone to failure because it gets ridiculously hot, and that a heat sink should be installed on top of it. The chips are expensive and hard to come by, so now that my Vidiot board is working I wanted to make sure to take this advice. I wasn’t exactly sure how to best go about this, so I figured I would write a tutorial on it. This might be moronically simple for some, but maybe someone will find it useful.
1. Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive & mixing thingy (the first three items above from left to right)
$5.95 on eBay
2. 40 pin glue-on alluminum heat sink
$1.50 at DigiKey.com – part #HS274-ND (thanks PinRepair.com!)
3. Any IC chip that needs a heatsink
4. CD that you don’t care about
$.01 on eBay
5. One rubber band
$1.48 for 1/4 lb bag at Staples (shoot the extras at unsuspecting passerby)
I headed to Radio Crap to see if they had some sort of adhesive for heat sinks. They didn’t, so don’t bother going. They have heat sink grease, which is NOT adhesive and will not work for this. They do have loads of batteries, crappy remote controlled toys, and cellphones. Are you interested in any batteries? Me neither.
1. Get out the outdated CD. If you need to play it once for old times sake before wrecking it, go for it. I’ll wait. All set? Let’s continue.
2. The CD is going to be used to mix the adhesive on because that’s all its good for anymore. This adhesive is magical in that it supposedly transfers heat from the chip to the heat sink. Instructions for using this stuff can be found here. Apparently it’s highly toxic and you aren’t supposed to eat it.
Squirt out equal parts of the two compounds onto a clean area of your Michael Bolton CD.
3. Mix it up with the spatula like you are making some sort of homemade tooth paste, but DON’T brush your teeth with it (yet).
4. Spread a thin layer on the top of the chip…just enough to cover it. Try not to get it all over the pins.
5. Put the heat sink on top…press it down a bit but don’t go all “hog wild” on it. Wipe or lick off the excess.
6. Double up the rubber band and carefully put it around the heat sink/chip sandwich without bending the pins. This was a little tricky.
7. Wait a few hours and remove the rubber band. If you did your’s right it will look like the one above but without a rubber band on it. If it looks completely different it’s time to get a new hobby.
I did something pretty stupid when I did mine. The heat sink is EXACTLY the same length as the chip. After gluing it on, I couldn’t see the notch in the chip that shows you how to orient it when inserting it in it’s socket! Luckily I had another identical chip. I used my meter set to continuity to find 2 pins on one side of the “non heat-sinked” chip that were connected. Then, I found the same pins on the “heat-sinked” one which let me match up the direction properly. After that, I marked where the notch would be on the very end of the chip, and wrote on the underside of it (with a paint pen).
Don’t be a dummy like me…mark your chip first.